Showing posts with label Bagging. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bagging. Show all posts

Monday, 17 June 2013

Finished Project & Pattern Review: Butterick 6582 Retro 60s Dress.

Finished project, yay. 

The Butterick 6582 Retro 60s dress was conceived in my "sewing room" about 5 weeks ago and I put the finishing touches on it tonight.

I absolutely love my sewing room (though my gas bill won't!!) it gets cold in there so to heat the room up I crank the heater up high during the evening. During the day it gets awesome warm sunshine so it's a really nice space to kick back and sew!


Last weekend I finished the bodice. The bodice is fully lined - no facings. I didn't have time during the week to sew so I had to wait till the weekend.

On Saturday after a day of kettlebells, brunching and a four hour nap; I cut out my gathered skirt, gathered it and attached it to the bodice.

On Sunday morning I woke up early and hand picked the zipper. I used a black 18" dress zipper I found in my stash... you could say I was 'stash busting'! Haha, not really, I just didn't want to go all the way to the shops for a $2 zip.

I love the handpicked look. I still have to work on my 'zip positioning' technique - the zip is not dead centre so the pricks are not even on both sides.

Waist seam matches, clap clap!!

I love the faux wrap bodice and the gathered shoulders. Too cute!!

The one feature of this dress that I liked was the fact that the front bodice was one big pattern piece, and one small shoulder piece, which joins the main bodice piece to make the "faux wrap".

Because of the way the pattern pieces were designed, I had the option of laying the pieces out on the fabric to choose where the flowers would end up (like I did with my V8511 floral/collared dress and my M8545 floral dress) and the with the small shoulder pattern piece, I chose a big flower to sit in the centre, like a corsage! Ahh.

Gathered skirts rock but next time I want to make the wiggle skirt.

Butterick 6582
Faux wrap baby!
Faux corsage too, hehe!
Yes, my dress form is wearing a bra. Haha.
Gathered shoulders.
Nice, evenly gathered skirt.
I always sew three rows of gathering stitches.
Bodice lining - white sunsilky polyester.
You can see where the small shoulder piece joins the main bodice.
No waist stay this time.
Shell: Cotton Sateen
Lining: Sunsilky Polyester
I know I said I'd hand sew the hem... forgive me!!
The shoddy looking stitch above is enough to scare me back to handsewing my hem next time. 

Shudders.
I think my machine needs a service.
Or I need a new machine.... 
Can you believe that I still don't have my camera back??
#Dodgy iPhone mirror #selfie!!
I like the back. It's perfect. 

Pattern Review: Butterick 6582, View 3

Size: 6 all the way! Usually I have to grade out to an 8 waist, but not this time! Either the pattern has more ease... or my healthy lifestyle is paying off!
Fabric: 1.5m cotton sateen (Darn Cheap), 0.7m sunsilky lining (Spotlight)
Notions: Dress zipper 18" , Gutermann thread
Time:  Can't remember the hours, but it was 4 sessions over 5 weeks
Cost: Fabric $20, Lining $7, Zipper $2
Pattern Modification/Adjustments:
  • Fully lined the bodice instead of facings for the bodice
Techniques Used:
Retro 1960s dress with full gathered skirt <3

I love this print! I thinks it's "autumn-y" so I'm keen to experiment with stockings and boots and see if they will suit this dress. It's way to cold in Melbourne to get around bare-legged.

Has anyone else (besides Laika Doll and Dapper Duds) made this dress?? It is such a beautiful dress!

If I had one piece of advice, I would recommend making a muslin/toile because the finished measurements on the pattern seemed large for my bust, but when I tried on the muslin it fit perfectly.


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Sunday, 21 April 2013

Finished Project: A self-drafted asymmetrical collar.

Pattern Review: V8511 (bodice only)

Size: 6 bust, 8 waist
Fabric: 1.5m cotton sateen (Darn Cheap), 0.7m bemsilk lining (Spotlight)
Notions: Dress zipper 22", Gutermann thread, 0.8m grosgrain ribbon, 1 bikini hook
Time: 10-12 hours, over 4 days.
Cost: Fabric $20, Lining $7, Zipper $2, Grosgrain Ribbon $2, Bikini Hook 0.50c
Pattern Modification/Adjustments:
  • Added self-drafted asymmetrical collars
  • Replaced tulip skirt with full gathered skirt
Techniques Used:
WIP
I am head-over-heels for this fabric! 

Sometimes all you need to get you out of a sewing rut is some oh-hot-damn floral cotton sateen.


This is my jam. Definitely.
I found this baby last Saturday. After having lunch with @SixInchHeel and fam bam I decided to do a drive around town looking for fabric. Ended up taking these four home.

I was in love with the it because it reminded me of the forest, foliage, butterflies? When I got home I washed and ironed and got to work cutting out the V8511.

Favourite part of sewing process - stepping back and admiring the perfectly cut pieces.

Like my 'corsage floral dress' I didn't cut the bodice on the centre fold. I wanted the perfect butterfly to adorn the centre of my princess seamed bodice. 

Same deal with the collars, I wanted a nice big flower so this meant that the collars used up a chunk of fabric I reserved for my skirt so the skirt ended up not as full.

The skirt length was 19" (SA and 3cm hem included).
The finished skirt hem measurement was 62".

Stay stitched around neckline and arm hole curves.
I re-used the collar pattern I drafted when I made the red V8511 work dress

By midnight Saturday I finished the shell and collars. Rewarded myself with back-to-back episodes of Californication and some wine :D

Hard at WIP on a Saturday night.
Sunday afternoon, I cut out the lining, bagged the bodice, understitched and prepped the skirt pieces (side seams frenched, three rows of gathering stitches).

Bodice lined with cream bemsilk.
Side seams matching perfectly.
Parfait!
Monday night I attached the skirt to the bodice. My unpicker was my BFF that night cos fabric kept getting caught, zz. 

Green grosgrain ribbon waist stay went on, and final fitting. Hurrah it fit. 

I took a couple of days break to focus on work and gym (went twice this week, yay... dined out 7 times, lol) and Wednesday I handpicked the zipper and handsewed the hem.

I love handpicking - more control and it's therapeutic.
Love those pricks!

I finished the dress in time to wear to my friends 30th birthday dinner last night at Rosetta.
All the bread, pasta, potato, pannacotta and wine I consumed was nicely hidden under the full skirt. DRESSES FTW.

#OOTN
ASOS Linen blazer, ASOS glitter skinny belt, ALL THAT JAZZ handmade vintage look clutch.
Waist stay!
#selfie :P
I love the V8511 bodice. I've perfected the fit and have used it to make many dresses. This is almost overtaking the McCalls 5845 as my favourite because it has no darts (I don't like marking darts!!)

Collars - Slit & Cummerbund - Scooped Back & Full Circle Skirt 1 & 2 - Gathered Skirt - Full Gathered Skirt & Collars.
Once I find a pattern that works, I tend to get obsessed and addicted to hacking it... nothing wrong with that hey, and I'm not the only one, my interstate blogger mate Erin of I-Heart-Fabric is currently in love with beautiful BurdaStyle 120 and has made soooo many versions of the same pattern. 

I didn't even realise they were all the same pattern cos the fabrics make each dress look completely different. Go check out Erin's dresses, they are to die for <3

I hope you all had a fun weekend. I definitely did. I ate way to much good food (blogged here), caught up with a few of my friends and to top it off the Melbourne weather was marvelous :) 

I have a long weekend next week so I'm planning to make another dress... don't be surprised if it's another V8511 with self-drafted collars and a full skirt.

If it ain't broke....!!


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Saturday, 4 February 2012

Squiggle, squiggle, squiggle, squiggle, squiggle yeah! And a quick zipper tutorial!

I sing that in the tune of LMFAO's song Sexy and I Know It when I look at this fabric... cos the fabric is 'magenta squiggle'. Naming this dress the "3am Squiggle" dress.

A skill that I learnt recently and have used on this dress is inserting an invisible zipper between the dress fabric and the lining, like how the zippers look on RTW. I have been taught that lining can be hand sewed to the dress fabric... but I do it by machine! Clean machine finish :D




My attempt at a tutorial... 





How to insert zipper in a fully lined dress!

Time to insert the invisible zipper
between the fabric and the lining.
Pin the zipper at seam allowance.
2.5cm seam allowance at the back for me.
I have a small back.
Separate the lining and the dress.
Baste zipper on the dress fabric only
(like you would on unlined dress).
Sew zipper with invisible zipper foot.
Repeat on the reverse side.
Flip the lining over so the right sides
of fabric/lining are facing eachother, pin.
Tuck the top bit of the zipper inside so you can sew it in.
Sew lining and dress fabric together close to the zip.
This is how it looks inside out.
Reverse it and voila!
Zipper is between the lining and the fabric.



Now... the finished dress and pattern review!


Do the squiggle, yeah.


I used the fabric I got from Spotlight yesterday and sunsilky lining** that I got for 1/2 price today from Lincraft.

Took 2 hours to cut, 5 hours to sew up the dress, lining, zipper and hem.

**Sunsilky lining: 100% Polyester. Permanently anti-static, treated to breath like a natural fibre.


"Techniques" (which might be normal practice for most seamstresses) that I used on this dress, which I must remember to use all the time cos I love the result so much:



  • PFF (press flat first)
  • Stay stitch - I always forget to do this!! I will make a mental note to remember
  • Zipper inserted between the lining and dress fabric
  • Twin needle hem

I'm proud to say that I did not unpick any of my seams! I made zero mistakes with this dress. This is a first! Usually when I sew late at night, I end up having to unpick at some stage, but not tonight. I started sewing at 9pm tonight and finished at 2am. I'm very nocturnal.

I'm also very happy that my front darts, side seams, and zipper all matched perfectly! The back darts were a little off, but that's ok .





Perfectly lined up darts.
M5845 front bodice.
Darts unaligned but the waist matches at the zipper.
M5845 back bodice.


The only modification I made to the pattern was lower the neck by 2" (5cm) and raise the back by 2" (5cm).

Oooh, and I added in-seam pockets!



Drafted my own in-seam pocket pattern.

Pattern Review... 


Pattern: McCall's 5845
Size: Size 6 bodice, graded to size 8 waist, size 6 skirt.
Fabric: 1.2m cotton sateen, 1m sunsilky lining
Notions: Invisible zipper (black) 16", Gutermann thread (000) 
Modifications: 
    • Lowered neck by 2"
    • Raised back by 2"
    • Skirt pieces shortened to 18.5" (3cm hem)
    • Added pockets
    • Regular (1.5cm) back seam allowance
    • Invisible zipper instead of dress zipper
    • No vent
    • Darts on the inside not outside (damn! I said I would put them outside next time I make this dress, oops).
Time: about 7 hours
Total cost: $14 (fabric, lining and zip), pattern and thread from my stash.


Here are some photos of the inside of the dress.


McCall's 5845
Finished the hems on the machine using the twin needles.
McCall's 5845

I wasn't very keen on the fabric when I saw it, but it was $5/m, so what the heck, I bought it, but I really like it now. At first glance, I thought it looked like a leopard print, but at closer inspection, it looks like blobs of spilt paint, lol. I really like it. Even if it does look like skanky leopard print, the high neck balances it out, haha.

I know I say this about every single dress after I finish making it, but I really love this one. I sewed with a lot of patience and applied techniques that I have learnt at sewing class and by reading online blogs. I guess it shows that I am improving if every new dress tops the last one.

I really like this dress cos it is fitted. It is very rare for me to fit "fitted" RTW dresses... if they fit at the bust and hips then it doesn't zip up at the waist. If it fits the waist, then its loose and yucky at the hips and bust. So glad I can customised my dress to fit my body.


McCall's 5845 (back)
McCall's 5845 (back)
McCall's 5845 with pockets.

Alrighty, off to bed for me :)





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