Finished Project & Pattern Review: Outside Darts, McCall's 5845.

So pleased with where the flowers ended up on the bodice.

Um, so I did not know that I have this awesome blank wall in my sewing room! 

So great for photographing my dresses. 

The sewing room has been great to work in, flooded with natural sunlight during the afternoon and warm enough for me to walk around with half my clothes off when I'm stabbing my body with pins at fitting stage. It is fricken hard when you live alone. 

Any tips for a sewist with no house mates? How do you guys get pinned up?

I gotta look at training the boyfriend up on seam allowances and pinning.

As you know, I had some time off work last week so I had plenty of time and no excuse not to sew something. My deadline was Friday 11th as I needed something to wear to my friends' wedding the next afternoon. 

I wanted to challenge myself so I moved away from my usual full skirts and so the measuring of butts began!

Scribbled my body measurements on the back of a takeaway pizza receipt.

I believe what I've written on the above paper are my body measurements in cm and inches, the sizes I chose and the finished measurements on the pattern piece for the size.

The pattern is my favorite pattern of all time - the McCall's 5845. I've made this dress heaps of times, mostly with full skirts, always with back modifications, but NEVER with the darts on the outside as per pattern instructions!

When you search '5845' in PatternReview.com the results page is flooded with reviews from me and Cindy of Cation Designs. We both love this pattern to bits and have modified the heck out of it. Pattern hacking, yay.

Main reason I was never a fan of darts-on-the-outside was because my stitching is sometimes wonky, and my backstitching looks horrible (I blame my machine). 

Well, here are my darts-on-the-outside, what do you think?

Outside darts ftw!

No bad huh?? I love the look of them, they give the dress texture and enough character that a belt is not needed. 

The modification that I always do to the M5845 is the front and back neck. I lower the front neck line about 5cms, and the back neck I usually raise a few inches - just enough so my bra strap is not exposed. 

This time I left the back low and made it into a scoop instead. Bra, schma!

The only modification I made to the pattern - scooped back.

I cut a size 4 bodice, graded it to a 10 waist.

I usually cut an 8 waist, which just "fits" but occassionally rides up, which probably means it's not a great fit! 

I swallowed my pride and cut a 10 on this version to make room for the champagne and wedding cake.

The skirt piece started as a 10 at the waist, graded to an 8 around the butt. 

I ended up taking the side seams of the skirt in around the hips, so I probably could have graded to 8 at the hips. I don't know. I'm still new to this wiggle skirt business. 

I winged most of the adjustments to the skirt. I did something which I think was a 2cm sway back adjustment, you can probably see the stitching in the photo below. Dunno if it was the right adjustment to make, but it certainly took away some bagginess around my lower back. 

My swayback faux-justment messed up my skirts back centre seam. Things went slightly off-grain when I inserted the zip. This resulted with a slight crinkle at the back of the skirt. It pissed me off at first but then it started to look like "butt-gathering" and didn't look too bad so I got over it.

I will never enjoy working with sunsilky, that shit frays like cray but once it's on the dress everything is beautiful again. I love fully lined dresses!

I hate looking at the inside fraying edges and stitching everywhere!
Thank goodness for lining.

I love the floral print so much!

Invisible zipper.
Machine-finished-zipper-sandwiched-between-shell-and-lining (tutorial here).

Fully lined with black sunsilky lining.

Hand stitched the hem (4cm hem) and machine stitched the hem on the lining.

Hand stitched hem looks way better than the disastrous machine hem on my Butterick 6582.

I turned the hem up 4cm on the shell and 8cm on the lining (4cm then up 4cm again to seal in the fraying edges).

Very proud of my straight machine stitching :)

Look at the lining!

Pattern Review: McCalls 5845 (view B, no belt), outside darts.

Size: 4 bust, 10 waist, 8 butt 
Fabric: 1.5m cotton sateen (Darn Cheap), 0.7m sunsilky lining (Spotlight). I had purchased 1.5m of fabric however the wiggle skirt does not need much fabric. I reckon I only used about 1m of fabric. Plenty leftover for a self-fabric belt!
Notions: Gutermann thread (000), Invisible zipper 10" (black) - I should have used a longer zipper but I had this in my stash.
Time: 3-4 hrs each day, over 5 days
Cost: Fabric $20, Lining from stash (but generally it's $10/m), Zipper from stash
Pattern Modification/Adjustments:

• Scooped back
• Lowered front neckline by 5cm
• Sway back adjustment
• Size 4 bust graded to 10 waist graded 10 hips, graded to 8 at the butt however ended up taking in the skirt at the hips anyway, so probably could have gotten away with 8 at the hips too, despite my hip measurements being for a 10. Massive sigh.

Techniques Used:

• Darts (on the outside this time as per pattern)

• Fully lined (bagging tutorial here)

• Machine-finished-zipper-sandwiched-between-shell-and-lining. No idea what the technique is called (clearly) but my attempt at tutorial here.

The skirt fits like a dream!!
These was a little wrinkle but I know it's cos I rushed the zip and it's a little off grain.

The scooped back and shoulders fit well, no gaping, yay!
It took me 4 attempts to get the zipper in straight and with waist seam matching perfectly.

What I like about the pattern is how simple it is to prep and sew. An experienced sewist could easily finish this in a day. 

There's 4 pieces to cut out - front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt. 

There's a total of 8 darts on the bodice and 6 on the skirt. Of course if you fully line the dress, it's x's 2 all the above.

The only difficulty I experienced while making this dress (apart from fitting) was the zipper. 

Oh my god, I almost threw in the towel. The whole zipper session I kept hearing this lyric in my head, not sure from which song, "hoping for the best, but expecting the worst" cos every time I finished sewing down the zipper, I'd zip it up hoping all is good.. and then the fkn seams wouldn't match. 

Finally after 4 attempts, everything matched up, no teeth were ruined (zipper teeth) and the dress fit. 

Saturday, wedding day! It was a gorgeous day, a little windy but super sunny. 

I woke up early to get my hair done. Got home, ate lunch, put on some Arbonne taffeta blush, dress on, quick pics for the blog then headed out to the beachy suburb of Brighton for the ceremony. 

The ceremony was lovely. The reception was even lovelier! It was at a restaurant over looking the bay. There was even a sunken submarine! Bride and groom had wedding pics on the jetty while the guests got into the champagne.

Food was yum! Ate the thickest rib eye ever!! 

Speeches from the Dads, Best Man, MoH, Groom - hilarious!! I was crying from laughter!

I only took a few pics as my iPhone would not do the bride and groom justice... I love the photo I got of the couple cutting the cake, look at how happy the groom is while looking at his wife! Adorable!! 

I'm so glad the bride encouraged me to make a dress to wear to her wedding, cos now that I've seen how great this dress turned out, I can't wait to make more. I hope you guys liked my outside darts and wiggle skirt as much as I did.

I don't think I've seen a version of this pattern with outside darts on the internet yet. If you have, please link me to it in the comments below! 

I have a work function this Friday but I don't have time to make anything. Sadface. 

See the dresses I made for last year's awards nights here and here.

I still have plenty of occasions this year to sew for: Halloween,, another work awards night, work Xmas party... so help me out with ideas guys! 

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Finished Project & Pattern Review: Butterick 6582 Retro 60s Dress.

Finished project, yay. 

The Butterick 6582 Retro 60s dress was conceived in my "sewing room" about 5 weeks ago and I put the finishing touches on it tonight.

I absolutely love my sewing room (though my gas bill won't!!) it gets cold in there so to heat the room up I crank the heater up high during the evening. During the day it gets awesome warm sunshine so it's a really nice space to kick back and sew!

Last weekend I finished the bodice. The bodice is fully lined - no facings. I didn't have time during the week to sew so I had to wait till the weekend.

On Saturday after a day of kettlebells, brunching and a four hour nap; I cut out my gathered skirt, gathered it and attached it to the bodice.

On Sunday morning I woke up early and hand picked the zipper. I used a black 18" dress zipper I found in my stash... you could say I was 'stash busting'! Haha, not really, I just didn't want to go all the way to the shops for a $2 zip.

I love the handpicked look. I still have to work on my 'zip positioning' technique - the zip is not dead centre so the pricks are not even on both sides.

Waist seam matches, clap clap!!

I love the faux wrap bodice and the gathered shoulders. Too cute!!

The one feature of this dress that I liked was the fact that the front bodice was one big pattern piece, and one small shoulder piece, which joins the main bodice piece to make the "faux wrap".

Because of the way the pattern pieces were designed, I had the option of laying the pieces out on the fabric to choose where the flowers would end up (like I did with my V8511 floral/collared dress and my M8545 floral dress) and the with the small shoulder pattern piece, I chose a big flower to sit in the centre, like a corsage! Ahh.

Gathered skirts rock but next time I want to make the wiggle skirt.

Butterick 6582

Faux wrap baby!
Faux corsage too, hehe!

Yes, my dress form is wearing a bra. Haha.

Gathered shoulders.

Nice, evenly gathered skirt.
I always sew three rows of gathering stitches.

Bodice lining - white sunsilky polyester.
You can see where the small shoulder piece joins the main bodice.

No waist stay this time.

Shell: Cotton Sateen
Lining: Sunsilky Polyester

I know I said I'd hand sew the hem... forgive me!!
The shoddy looking stitch above is enough to scare me back to handsewing my hem next time. 
Shudders.
I think my machine needs a service.
Or I need a new machine.... 

Can you believe that I still don't have my camera back??
#Dodgy iPhone mirror #selfie!!

I like the back. It's perfect. 

Pattern Review: Butterick 6582, View 3

Size: 6 all the way! Usually I have to grade out to an 8 waist, but not this time! Either the pattern has more ease... or my healthy lifestyle is paying off!

Fabric: 1.5m cotton sateen (Darn Cheap), 0.7m sunsilky lining (Spotlight)

Notions: Dress zipper 18" , Gutermann thread

Time:  Can't remember the hours, but it was 4 sessions over 5 weeks

Cost: Fabric $20, Lining $7, Zipper $2

Pattern Modification/Adjustments:

• Fully lined the bodice instead of facings for the bodice

Techniques Used:

• Darts
• Lined bodice (bagging tutorial here)
• Gathering
• Handpicked zip

Retro 1960s dress with full gathered skirt <3

I love this print! I thinks it's "autumn-y" so I'm keen to experiment with stockings and boots and see if they will suit this dress. It's way to cold in Melbourne to get around bare-legged.

Has anyone else (besides Laika Doll and Dapper Duds) made this dress?? It is such a beautiful dress!

If I had one piece of advice, I would recommend making a muslin/toile because the finished measurements on the pattern seemed large for my bust, but when I tried on the muslin it fit perfectly.

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Finished Project & Pattern Review: McCall's 5850.

I actually finished this dress a couple of months ago, but didn't get around to taking photos or blogging about it because I was hoping to add a few more finishing touches to improve the fit on me but I have since given up and moved on to Burda 7254 which is actually coming along quite nicely. 

After an enjoyable dinner with my great mate Eirene and a couple of wines, I decided to get the pattern review over with. Photos were taken on my iPhone. This dress is too pretty not to share with my internet sewing mates :D

Pattern Review: McCall's 5850
"Create It" pattern - I made the strapless bodice, flat midriff band and gathered skirt. Fully lined.

Size: I cut a size 6, graded to an 8 waist, however I could have cut a straight 4.

Fabric: 1.7m linen blend from Lincraft, 1.8m sunsilky polyester lining. I actually needed 1.8m dress fabric but I used the linen from my stash and managed to fit all the pieces on 1.7m.

Notions: 14" invisible zipper, 2m grosgrain ribbon, interfacing, thread.

Techniques:  First time I used boning in the bodice. I had previously only boned a cummerbund. Gee, that sounds dirty...hehehe.

Hours: About 8 dressmaking classes... 16 hours or so. 

Will you make it again? No. No. No. I thought this would be a pattern that I would love and make over and over, but the bodice is so unflattering on me. I could not even bring myself to photograph myself wearing it. There are photos of me wearing another version of this dress here but this is not a pattern I will ever make again. I am really disappointed because I absolutely love this fabric. The bodice is so short up top, I feel over exposed... just doesn't suit my body shape. Possibly also due to the waist seam not hitting my natural waist so I feel naked up top and pregnant below. I just don't feel right in this dress.

Total cost:  $50ish - dress fabric $25, lining $18, zipper $5, grosgrain ribbon $5

Modifications/Adjustments: 

• For the lining, I cut the slimmer skirt (I think it was the bubble skirt pattern piece) so that it would eliminate the puffiness around the belly
• Added the grosgrain ribbon 'straps' to see if it would help hold up the dress because the bodice wasn't hugging my bust and the waist wasn't on my waist so it wasn't holding the bodice up. The waist seam sits pretty much in the middle of my rib cage so no matter how snug it is at the waist seam, the dress won't stay up
• Grosgrain ribbon for the waist seam, but I haven't sewn it on yet
• A very narrow seam allowance when I joined the shell and lining together at the top - I hoped that this would add a little height to the bodice... it added about 0.5cm which did not make much difference. The narrow seam allowance also caused the lining to ride up even though I understitched. Thinking I might have to top stitch or stitch shell and lining all together when I sew on the grosgrain ribbon at the waist seam

Final thoughts: I have seen other versions of this dress (like this one-shoulder version by Inez) and they look awesome. 

It's an easy strapless dress pattern, unfortunately it does not suit my body shape - I feel like I am wearing a sack... the bodice flattens my almost-non-existent bust, then poofs out at my rib cage making me look like a tent with no boobs.

I'm happy with the craftsmanship because I know the effort I put into this dress was 100%. 
I really enjoyed putting the dress together, great learning experience and has made me aware of what does and doesn't suit my body shape.
My teacher and I knew we were taking a risk making a strapless style because I don't have the bust to hold it up but it was a risk I was willing to take so I could learn how a strapless dress is constructed.
After experimenting with other bodices, the most flattering bodice for me has to nip in at/just above my natural waist. Babydoll-like styles are not for me.

TIP: Don't be intimidated by the many small pattern pieces because it's quite easy to put together once all the cutting and interfacing is complete.

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'Bagging' Tutorial: How to sew lining in sleeveless dress bodice.

The first time I attempted to line a sleeveless dress myself, I did so following this great tutorial by The Slapdash Sewist.

I have been using this technique for ever and it is a very easy way to achieve a clean machine finish - no handsewing at all! 

Here are some photos I took while I was lining my dress and an attempt at a tutorial.

1) Start by sewing the dress fabric bodice together as per pattern instructions, joining the back and front bodice by the shoulder only. Do not sew the side seams on dress fabric.

2) Sew the lining of the bodice the same way. Do not sew the side seams on lining.

3) Join the dress fabric and lining together at the neck whole and arm holes, making sure the RIGHT sides of the fabric are facing together. See pic below.

Pin the dress fabric and lining together at the neck whole and arm holes. Do not pin the sides!

4) Sew the dress fabric and lining together as pinned. Trim off your seam allowance and clip your curves!!

5) Reverse the bodice to the right side by pulling the two back bodice pieces through the shoulders.

Pulling the two back bodice pieces through the shoulders.

Bodice is now reversed and seams are now on the inside.

Bodice should look like this, with the neck and arm circles sewed up but side seams still open. 
Now is a good time to understitch!

6) Now we pin the side sides. Pin the 'back' and front' bodice dress fabric together and do the same for the lining. After you pin the seams, you should be able to flip the dress fabric over the lining and the seams should be in between the two fabrics.

After pinning, stitch down the side seams.

After you pin/sew the seams, you should be able to flip the dress fabric over the lining and the seams should be in between the two fabrics. Arm hole should be joined now.

Clean machine... 

...finish! 
Completed dress blogged here!

Here is a list of other online tutorials and helpful information that I have come across during my sewing adventure:

• Inserting invisible zipper - video tutorial
• Inserting invisible zipper between dress fabric and lining - clean machine finish - my attempt at a tutorial
• Half Circle Skirts
• Full Circle Skirt calculator
• Full Gathered Skirt
• Draft own Peter Pan collar - Gertie's YouTube tutorial (part 1, part 2, part 3) 

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